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2010 Camaro SS


JohnC

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On 6/16/2022 at 2:29 PM, jamtoy said:

Yep forged and dropped compression about a point. Darton  sleeved at 427ci. 
 

should hopefully get on the engine dyno  next week and if all is well car should be done soon after.

 

would like to see near 500rwhp na. That’s on a stingy mustang dyno.

That thing will be scary fast!

Dude, post the progress here!

I still need to get mine to the track and see what it'll do.

Hope the DR's are worth a crap.

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On 6/30/2022 at 6:24 PM, jamtoy said:

Drag radials are on the agenda. I’m now worried about the Georgia heat. I’ll be close to silver dollar dragway where the 2000hp sinks run. 

My junk tries to run hot in the real hot months during summer.

I suspect the trans cooler and air to air ProCharger intercooler are blocking a ton of airflow to my radiator.

The plan is to get a ZL1 front bumper cover and hood so it can extract more heat out. 

If that doesn't work, I guess I'll see if I can cram in a larger radiator.... 

2012-chevy-camaro-zl1-new-photos-released_6.thumb.jpg.b9edcaadefa7ea7d9d764493df378fb8.jpg

sc0516-240820_1@2x.thumb.jpg.d0fd1880bafe0875018d18bb66e7e067.jpg

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10 hours ago, Disney said:

How hot? 230??

I can't recall specifically the temps. I just remember it was getting hot in traffic and at slower speeds.

That was last summer. I've not driven the car in the hotter months this year. 

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37 minutes ago, jamtoy said:

I want to drive it to Georgia where I work. Only concern is Atlanta traffic jam on Friday’s. Can the car stay cool and can my left leg handle it.😀

Only one way to find out!

Drive that badboy! 

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  • 10 months later...

Well, fixing some issues I had and just didn't have time to fix.

TKR crushed my PS wideband wiring, so redoing that now. It's a PITA to hump over under this dash when my back was already hurting before I started.

Changed oil because plug wire came off coil and I assume a lot of e85 got in the oil.

Moved starter wire that TKR should have zip tied away from the header it was sitting on.

Other O2 sensor on DS was nearly touching the header. Zip tied it away.

TKR never plugged a harness in behind my front bumper that I believe went to the side lights. Fixed.

Going to discount tire to make them rebalance these Nitto's. Ever since mounted, they get about 70mph and go out of balance. I've hardly driven the car since i put them on.

 

 

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Replaced the wideband wire to gauge. The gauge did not work.

Got a spare kit I had bought and installed a new gauge.

BAM! Works now.

I assume crushing the wire shorted out the old gauge. 

Everything seems OK for now.

Still some weirdness on the test drive.

Coming to a stop at a red-light, the rpm sounded different. I look at my wideband and it went to 0.8XXX Lambda and it started running and shifting crappy. Took off easy and it snapped back to normal and for the last half of my trip, it ran  good. 

I think there is an intermittent issue going on. I'm going to replace both O2 sensors and see how it does.

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Car is still doing wonky shit.

Ever so many starts (don't recall exactly how many), I see Stabiltrack in the info thingy.

Once that flashes, it drags like the battery is almost dead and doesn't want start.

Really irritating. 

This is all the BS I see when I scan for codes via HP Tuners.

obd_codes.jpg.1ac222422f09a455357248fc5f5afa5b.jpg

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That U0198 code....all U codes are communication faults.   Sometimes it's difficult for a U code to set because there are comm issues....so, check to see if all modules are communicating.   There COULD be a few off line.  IF SO, that changes the ballgame.

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Comm’s as in I need to drive it more?

Drive it a while, a few starts later and it drags like the battery is weak, flashes Stabiltrak in the dash info and then acts like it doesn’t want to restart after being turned off. 

 

 

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With all those faults with lights, I bet I have a bad ground wire someplace?

https://www.obd-codes.com/u0198
 

I did find one harness in the bumper off. I reconnected that, so that might be the front lights faults.

The license plate lights, I had that known issue where the bulbs fall out of the cheap Chinese housing and end up between the bumper cover. I disconnected the bulbs so they wouldn’t melt in to the bumper or worse, the wire harness. I’ve not had license plate lights for years. 

Cam code has been there since the cam and DoD delete.

I had cylinder imbalance since the broken rocker arms and beat up push rods.

The leans codes, not sure.

Id say those aren’t current their old.

So I need to find the cause of this lost comm with tcm. 

Do you know where all the ground wires are in a 2010 Camaro SS for the tcm?

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16 hours ago, Ashley P said:

Respectfully, I'm not answering any questions until you KNOW which modules communicate and which do NOT communicate.    We have to know which ballgame we're coaching before making plays.

How? It’s intermittent and I cleared the codes again.

It might be that issue some of these Camaros have because the battery is in the trunk, grounds get weaker over time, gets heat soaked and then it drags like you have a nearly dead battery.

When it drags like it has very little charge, it does exactly the same as it would with a weak near dead battery and sucks the voltage down enough that Stabiltrak flashes and that would indicate that the TCM probably intermittently lost power causing all this mess to happen.

What do you think? 

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On 6/27/2023 at 9:47 AM, Ashley P said:

That U0198 code....all U codes are communication faults.   Sometimes it's difficult for a U code to set because there are comm issues....so, check to see if all modules are communicating.   There COULD be a few off line.  IF SO, that changes the ballgame.

That's still what I think.

GM Tech II and the SnapOn scanners I've used will "scan all modules" and list them.   Check that against what the car is supposed to have.  If one or more is missing, start there.

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Camaro 5 group show it’s a very common issue.

After heat soak, car doesn’t want to start.

They add grounds.

I seen mentioned:

1. Add starter ground

2. Add negative battery ground.

3. Add alternator ground

4. mention of 3ga wire

5. mention of oxygen free copper / marine grade copper wire.

So far…..

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Also…

 

The problem has been isolated to the power post under the hood.  There is a big loss at that connection

The fix is to run a new seperate 0 gauge from the battery straight to the starter alongside the old cable

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